pushes the limits for Fall/Winter 2000/2001
Before Seventh on Sixth begins to think about pre-production and long before the Paris couture shows, global fabric trends get ironed out first in a far less glamourous setting. Directly translating into "First Look", the Premiere Vision show represents exactly that. Eighteen months before popular fashion appears in stores, the planning starts at what is casually known within the industry as "P.V." Held twice yearly in October and March in Paris, the four-day spectacle showcases the top European fabric collections for both home and apparel and is attended by any fashion designer and press representative who must be "in the know". Attendees are treated to three "salons", each featuring different fabric styles, through films, lectures, trend and multimedia exhibits.
Walking the miles of this show could be daunting to even the most energetic New York fashionista, but the savvy people at Premiere Vision developed a solution. This season PV unveiled their new "Fashion, Culture, Relaxation" areas. The most popular was an enormous igloo with multimedia techno animation on the walls and oversized cushions inside. "The whole concept was very pleasant, very well trafficked, and really amazing," explained Bernadette Semavoine, managing director and vice president of Promostyl, (a Paris-based trend forecast service and au courant fabric library).
Premiere Vision is the premiere industry barometer, setting the styles, colors, textures and trends for the season to come, with much trickle down effect into ready-to-wear collections, creating the color, mood, and drape of clothes to come. This time, for the Fall/Winter 2000/2001 season, the big news was Color and "Multimedia" fabrics.
Several manufacturers noted a return to bold, "real" color as opposed to the softened, grayed, neutral colors of past seasons,
with the following palette:
The fabrics themselves reflected the fashion movement towards variety in dressing, mixing yarns, layers, coatings, performance technology and lots of embellishment: Nothing is simple anymore.
Technology has also created the next step in printing. Usually available as custom techniques for small batches only, these effects are now available in mass quantity.
Hi-tech synthetics, iridescence and sleek shine were everywhere. The reassuring words, "Sportswear synthetics are not just for techno clothes anymore, but reaching into the better markets" were delivered by Christine Azario, director of fabric design for the Donna Karan Collection
Embellishment on everything from jeans to taffeta shells to ballgowns blurred the line between evening and daywear," explained Glynis Dohn, vice president of design and merchandising for Hamil USA, a Canadian textile converter. The trend toward artisanal, homespun one-of-a-kind pieces has allowed fabric designers to pull out all the stops.
Denim is still extremely hot right now and came in every shape imaginable:
Luxury and texture marked the coming of autumn:
"Trends that have been making their way into the market over the last few seasons are starting to really catch on," explains Fred Rotman, executive vice president of Picchi, a woolen fabric mill based in Prato, Italy. He emphasized color, highlighting pastels and greens as the most dominant. "Bonded, double-faced fabrics continue, but in a bigger way. Laser cut designs, especially on felted fabrics, with raw-edge finishes are becoming important. Flannel continues, especially with stretch, and we're seeing various polyurethane finishes with a crispy, bouncy hand for pants and jackets. And everybody wants fringe", he explains. With "hippy style" turning towards the mainstream, borders, jacquards and blanket designs round out the demand.
This fall, when you throw on that shimmering wool dress with layers of tulle and feathers, or the quilted T that reacts to your body heat (and offers UV protection), you'll realize fully just how trendy and cutting edge you really are.
By Hilary Krosney